KALAMKARI

KALAMKARI

We call it an "Artistic Wonder"

History:

Kalamkari, with a history dating back 3000 years, is believed to have originated in the 8th century AD, while evidence of painted fabrics was found in the Indus Valley Civilization. Kalamkari, a hand-painted cotton textile from Andhra Pradesh, exclusively uses natural dyes and involves twenty-three steps. Two distinct styles, Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti, showcase block-painting and freehand drawing, respectively, using earthy colors like indigo, mustard, rust, black, and green. Originally termed Pattachitra, it transitioned to Kalamkari during medieval Islamic rule, blending Persian words for "pen" and "craftsmanship." This art form depicts nature-inspired elements, animals, mythology, and more.

In modern times, digital techniques have replaced traditional methods, making original Kalamkari a rare find.

Actual Technique:

The process involves steeping the cloth in astringents and buffalo milk, drying it, outlining red, black, brown, and violet portions with a mordant, immersing it in an alizarin bath, covering it in wax except for areas to be dyed blue, immersing it in indigo dye, scraping off the wax, and hand-painting the remaining areas using a bamboo or date palm stick.

Kalamkari Today:

After a decline, Kalamkari was revived for its craftsmanship, thriving in Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam in Andhra Pradesh. However, in the past decade, the intricate technique led to a decline. The emergence of technology and printed textiles further threatened its existence. Preservation requires collective efforts from the fashion industry, people, and support for artisans practicing this ancient art.

 

References:

  1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalamkari
  2. https://blog.marasim.co/the-story-of-indian-kalamkari/
  3. https://www.utsavpedia.com/motifs-embroideries/kalamkari-art/
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