MANGALAGIRI SILK

MANGALAGIRI SILK

We call it "Distinguished" 

Heritage:

The name Mangalagiri, translating to "The Auspicious Hill," reflects its significance during the Vijayanagara Kingdom rule as Mangala Nilayam. Known for its handloom tradition, Mangalgiri sarees and suit materials from Andhra Pradesh have been a part of this town for over five centuries. These fabrics stand out for their durability, simplistic patterns, solid colors, and wearability. Woven solely on pit looms, with no gaps along the edges, Mangalgiri fabrics are unique and exclusive to the town. Today, handloom weaving is the primary occupation for around half of Mangalgiri's population, making it a key player in the global textile industry. Besides its textile fame, Mangalgiri is also recognized as a pilgrimage destination, where purchasing a saree from local weavers is a tradition after offering obeisance to the lord.

Making:

Most Mangalgiri fabrics feature a zari border and pallu without woven designs on the main body. The Nizami border, up to 2 inches thick, is a traditional highlight made entirely of gold zari, adorned with symmetrical gopuram and tribal motifs inspired by regional art and architecture. It's fascinating to note that the preparation of yarn for pit looms involves the efforts of at least 30 people.

Steps:

The cotton yarns undergo cleaning, drying, and treatment with rice congee for a glossy texture. After overnight soaking for dyeing preparation, the yarns are bleached, and excess dyes are removed. Warping (long side) and weft (short side) creation follow, using charkha, shift looms, and bobbins for warp and Pirn for weft. Starched and ready, the yarns proceed to the weaving process on pit looms, contributing to the durability and longevity of the sarees with minimal gaps between the weaves.

Every Mangalgiri handloom piece serves as an heirloom, echoing the rich cultural heritage and traditions of our country.

 

References: 

  1. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mangalagiri
  2. https://www.utsavpedia.com/textiles/mangalgiri-sari-from-the-fine-edges-of-andhra-pradesh/
  3. https://www.perniaspopupshop.com/encyclopedia/andhra-pradesh/mangalagiri
  4. https://www.sundarisilks.com/blogs/article/the-marvel-of-a-mangalagiri-weave
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