TIE-DYE
History:
The term Bandhani finds its roots in the Sanskrit word bandhana, signifying the act of tying. The origins of bandhani can be traced back more than 5,000 years to the ancient Indus Valley Civilization, believed to have originated in the Indian states of Rajasthan and Gujarat. Excavations at Mohenjo-daro and Harappa have uncovered evidence of tie-dye textiles, indicating its practice in the region for millennia. The Muslim Khatri community of Kutch is often credited as early practitioners of this dyeing form. Historical accounts, including those of Alexander the Great in the 300s BC, mention encountering beautiful dyes in India. Over centuries, diverse tying and dyeing techniques have been employed in India, Japan, and Africa, using natural and synthetic elements to create plain and patterned fabrics.
Process:
Creating Bandhani fabric initiates with selecting a lightweight fabric, typically cotton or silk, which is then washed and dyed in a base color. Skilled artisans proceed to intricately tie small sections of the fabric with thread, forming minute knots that act as resist points, preventing dye penetration in those areas. After preparation, the fabric is immersed in a dye bath, often undergoing multiple dips with different colors in each bath. Following each dyeing, artisans carefully untie the knots, revealing undyed areas. This process is iterated, tying and dyeing different sections to form intricate patterns and designs. The outcome of the Bandhani technique is a vibrant, colorful fabric featuring various patterns like dots, waves, squares, and more. Designs can range from simple and symmetrical to complex and abstract, giving Bandhani fabric its distinctive and captivating appeal.
Culture:
In India, dyes have held significant cultural meaning for thousands of years. For instance, brides traditionally wear the "Bandhani" saree for good fortune. Early on, natural elements were used for dyes, and this practice continues, incorporating both natural and synthetic elements. Bandhani, the oldest method still in use, is employed to craft sarees, odhnis, and turbans. Wearing a unique pattern often identifies individuals with a specific community. Traditionally, only two colors were used simultaneously, such as the lucky yellow and red in Indian culture. Today, Bandhani employs bright colors like yellow, red, green, and pink in various shades. Despite modern variations, certain colors retain profound cultural significance, with red symbolizing a newly married woman and yellow used for new mothers. While tie-dye is often associated with the 1960s and 1970s hippie movement in the West, Bandhani's roots delve deep into the rich cultural history of India.
Did you know!
The most common clusters and patterns of knots made from clusters each have their own name such as;
- Ekdali: single dot
- Tikunthi: three dots that make circles and squares
- Chaubundi: four dots
- Satbandi: dots in groups of seven
- Boond: small dot with a dark center
- Kodi: tear or drop-shaped pattern
- Dungar Shahi or Shikargah: a mountain like pattern
- Jaaldar: web like pattern
- Beldaar: vine like pattern
- Laddu Jalebi: swirling pattern
- Leheriya: wave-like pattern
